Shannon Bros Guide to Vietnam

Below is our guide to Vietnam, written from the viewpoint of what we “wish we had known” before arriving in each city.  We’ve tried to keep it concise so that each city can be browsed in less than a minute.  Make the adventure your own… but trust these suggestions when in doubt.  We guarantee a great time!

Also check out our guides to Cambodia and Laos – please share with anyone that might benefit 🙂

After 94 days in Vietnam, here is the best of the best and everything we’ve learned in between:

General

  • The Vietnamese word for Hotel is “Khách Sạn” and the word for Guesthouse is “Phòng Trọ”
    • Using these words to search for accommodation in Google Maps is essential when travelling off the beaten track.
  • Pay the little bit extra for a 3 Month Visa if there is ANY possibility that you will stay longer than 30 days. It is not worth the stress and hassle of having to extend your Visa in the middle of the country if you decide to stay longer or become delayed.
  • If preparing a Visa for another country in advance through your hostel or a local travel agency, be sure to double check that the activation date is accurate when your passport is returned. This simple check would have saved us much time, money, and confusion.
  • Beware of bag snatchers in the major cities, especially Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)! DO NOT walk around late at night with any kind of bag hanging off your body.
  • Have fun! There is a reason we spent 94 days here.

Cat Ba Island (Alternative to Ha Long Bay)

  • DO NOT go to Ha Long Bay unless you are 100% set on visiting. It is overpriced and overhyped.
    • Ok fine, the Ha Long Bay Castaway Tour is perfect if you are looking for a few days of mindless partying in a beautiful setting (with a few activities thrown in). It is very popular but also very expensive.
  • For real adventure on a budget, skip Ha Long Bay entirely and head straight to Cat Ba Island (just South of Ha Long).
  • MUST stay at Catba Central Hostel (Backpackers). Cheap, super soft beds, and free breakfast.
  • DO NOT pay for any tours until you have checked these Do-It-Yourself adventures off the list:
  • MUST spend a day exploring Lan Ha Bay by kayak:
    • Pick up cheap, fresh food in the morning at the local market. Walk to Ben Beo harbour and rent a kayak for between 100-200K VND for the day. Explore to your heart’s content. Stop at any of the beautiful deserted islands for rest and snacks. Don’t worry about getting lost, as long as you have half a brain.
  • MUST rent a scooter to visit Hospital Cave and Trung Trang Grotto:
    • Hospital Cave is a quick visit but worth seeing for the ticket price. Trung Tang Grotto is between Hospital Cave and the entrance to Cat Ba National Park on the only highway across the island. Look for the white Trung Trang Grotto sign on the West side of the road.
    • It is technically closed but so worth exploring, trust us. Bring a flashlight and your nerves.
  • MUST do the “6 hour; 14 km” hike through Cat Ba National Park (easily doable in 4 hours at a good pace):
    • Hire a taxi to the entrance of Cat Ba National Park (the earlier the better). Pay for the “6 hour hike” at the booth. Start walking and enjoy! The trail ends at Viet Hai harbour where you can catch a ferry back to Ben Beo or Cat Ba (Ben Tau Cat Ba) harbours.
    • The public ferry takes you right through Lan Ha Bay – naive tourists pay triple for a private tour of this exact same route!
  • Check out Ngu Lam Peak for a shorter hike (1-2 hours) with possibly the best view in Vietnam. Also begins at the entrance to Cat Ba National Park.
  • Still craving adventure? Head to Asia Outdoors Tour Operator on the main drag. We regret not doing any rock climbing, but the deep water bouldering was out of season and the top rope climbing was out of our budget 😦
  • MUST eat at Green Mango at least once. Pay a little bit more and you will see that it’s worth it.
  • Green Mango also has the best Happy Hour in town: 2 for 1 giant Tiger beers for 25K VND!
  • After happy hour, head to Rose Bar to cover all your late night needs.

Hanoi

  • Stay at Hanoi Rocks Hostel for the full-on party hostel experience, including a complimentary buffet breakfast, and free daily yoga.
  • For a slightly quieter stay check out Central Backpackers Hostel – Old Quarter (free breakfast, free beer happy hour from 7-8pm, free nightly popcorn, and a movie room)
  • Or Flipside Hostel (free breakfast, free Sunday keg, unique atmosphere).
  • By far the best thing to do in Hanoi is to get lost in the unique vibe of the Old Quarter and surrounding area. Here are a few suggestions to guide your way (all walking distance):
    • Spend an afternoon wandering around Hoan Kiem Lake and check out Ngoc Son Temple (on its own island at the North end).
    • Stop by St. Joseph’s Cathedral if you are in the area. Not mind blowing, but pleasant enough to justify a detour.
    • Stop by Thang Long Water Puppet Theater if you are in the area. No need to go to a show (unless that’s your thing). The museum-like reception area and theater setup are worth a quick look.
    • Check out Hoa Lo Prison for some cultural exposure. Becomes repetitive quickly but also has some great exhibits, notably the Vietnam War POW section (make sure your BS detector is working though).
  • MUST visit Cong Cafe for their coconut coffee. Try both hot and cold versions. This will change your coffee dreams.
  • MUST visit Giang Cafe for the original “Eggy Coffee.” Try it once or try it everyday if you’re like us 😉
  • Visit Always Cafe if you are a Harry Potter fan. Just do it and thank us later 🙂
  • MUST try Bun Bo Nam Bo, a dish available at street vendors and restaurants everywhere.
    • Our favourite place was a no-name sidewalk cafe beside Hangover Bar (here) for 35K VND.
  • Any of the popular hostels is a great place to start a night out. When in doubt, head to Hanoi Rocks Hostel, Vietnam Backpacker Hostels – Downtown, or Central Backpackers Hostel – Old Quarter (in that order).
  • From there, Beer Corner in the Old Quarter will have the rest of your night covered.
  • This ANZ ATM will let you take out 5 million VND at a time. Helpful for reducing ATM fees (virtually every other ATM in Vietnam has a 2M VND limit).
  • Head to Hang Bac Street to change money at the best rates. Useful when USD is required for Visa fees. Shop number 10 gave us a fair rate (all shops double as jewelry stores).
    • Be sure to double-check that the bills are crisp and unmarked!

Tam Coc and Ninh Binh

  • Ninh Binh is the local, non-touristy township (and also the name of the province). Tam Coc is the beautiful countryside less than 10km away that is slowly being developed to cater to tourism.
  • MUST stay at Tam Coc Bamboo Homestay. The local manager, “King Kong,” will make your stay special. On top of that: comfortable dorm beds and quality food.
  • Stay at Kim Lien Guesthouse if your heart is set on the city of Ninh Binh. Simple, clean, and cheap rooms in a good location.
  • MUST check out the Mua Caves. Don’t let the name fool you. There are a couple small caves but the highlight is a steep hike to one of the best views in Vietnam.
  • Trang An Grottoes, Tam Coc, and Van Long Nature Reserve boat tours are all popular, but entailed too much sitting for our liking.
  • Instead check out Thai Vi Temple (free admission). Rent a bicycle (or walk as we did) and explore the incredible Tam Coc scenery by land on your way to the temple.
  • Bai Dinh Pagoda is the biggest in Southeast Asia (though it was constructed only recently for commercial purposes). Friends told us it was definitely a, “sight to see,” though we didn’t end up visiting ourselves.
  • For excellent food in Tam Coc, head to a homestay rather than any of the restaurants on the main drag.
  • Cheap, delicious food can be found at any of the many local restaurants in Ninh Binh. Don’t expect any English though.
  • For nightlife in Tam Coc, stick to the main drag and follow the noise. If you’re set on partying in Ninh Binh, either get creative or find a group of locals that will take you under their wing.

Phong Nha (Son Trach Village)

  • MUST stay at Easy Tiger Hostel. Comfortable beds, two fire pits, a pool, and giant mugs of coffee, tea, and beer. This was our favourite hostel in Vietnam.
  • MUST visit Paradise Cave. If you only visit one cave here, make it this one.
  • The Dark Cave is a unique experience and also highly recommended.
  • Strongly encourage seeing both in one day:
    • Rent a scooter in the morning and head West. Hit Paradise Cave first then continue to The Dark Cave in the afternoon (bring swimwear you don’t care about).
    • This route is called The Loop, and would be worth doing even without the caves. Expect lush mountain views and fun winding roads.
  • Phong Nha Cave and Thien Son Cave are worth seeing if you have a half day to kill. Phong Nha is a 2 hour boat ride and Thien Son is a short walking loop. Stick to Paradise and Dark Cave if you don’t have much time.
  • Check out the Botanical Garden for a fun hiking loop with a cool waterfall climb.
  • MUST eat at The Pub With Cold Beer for the freshest chicken and tastiest peanut sauce you’ll ever have. Kill and prepare the chicken yourself if you’re up for it.
  • MUST eat at Bamboo Cafe. The stew, wonder balls, eggy coffee, and banana peanut butter shake are all worth it.
  • The coffee at Mountain River Cafe isn’t worth the trip. If you go, order the special without sweet condensed milk.
  • Happy hour at Easy Tiger is where it’s at. Start the night with 2 for 1 giant mugs of Tiger or Larue beer from 7-8pm while sitting by the fire with Easy Tiger’s amazing travel community.
  • Move the party down the street to Why Not Bar after 11pm to keep the buzz alive.

Hue

  • Stay at Hue Happy Homestay (best experience), Casablanca Hotel Hue (best value), or Hue Backpackers Hostel (best community).
    • We chose Casablanca Hotel and don’t regret the clean, quite stay, but would go for Happy Homestay if we returned.
  • MUST visit the abandoned Ho Thuy Tien waterpark on the outskirts of Hue (here). Much more interesting than the Imperial City (The Citadel) and the Royal Tombs – unless you’re a hardcore history buff.
    • DO NOT miss the Dragon Aquarium (and the stairs into the dragon’s mouth) at the South end of the lake, the Waterslides at the Western edge, and the Stadium at the North end.
  • It would be a shame to miss the Imperial City (The Citadel) while in Hue, though it becomes a bit repetitive after a while.
    • Rather than entering through the main Ngo Mon Gateway and paying 150K VND, walk right or left along the internal periphery (after you’ve entered the outermost enclosure) and enter through one of the side gates.
    • Technically this will only let you visit the free sites within the enclosure, but ticket checking is VERY lax at the “paid” sites. This strategy should let you see everything for free. (Unfortunately we only realized this after we paid and discovered the alternate entry points.)
  • We skipped the Royal Tombs because we were burned out after the Imperial City.  Here were our top choices in order of interest: Tomb of Minh Mang, Tomb of Khai Dinh, and Tomb of Tu Duc.
  • Instead, we stopped by two free temples on our way out of town: Thien Mu Pagoda and Bao Quoc Pagoda. Both pleasant enough and worth stopping by if you are in the area.
  • Dong Ba market is huge and a good place to stock up on travel supplies, especially warm clothing if you are continuing North.
  • MUST eat at Lien Hoa. Dirt cheap, creative, vegetarian, and the BEST hot pot we’ve had in Asia. Be adventurous with your small plate orders; everything is delicious.
  • MUST try the Panna Cotta dessert stand just down the road from Lien Hoa (here). Unique selection of desserts that we haven’t seen anywhere else in Vietnam for 10K VND (50 cents) each!
  • Start the night at Hue Backpackers Hostel for cheap drinks and great community.
  • Move to Brown Eyes or DMZ Bar from there to keep the party buzz alive.

Da Nang

  • MUST stay at Funtastic Beach Hostel. Comfortable beds, great community, free breakfast, and an awesome movie room.
  • MUST make a trip to Marble Mountain (also doable from Hoi An). Good exercise, incredible views, and tons of temple/shrine exploration.
  • MUST take a walk over Dragon Bridge. On Saturdays and Sundays the dragon head spits fire and water starting at 9pm sharp!
  • For more exercise, combine a trip to the Lady Buddha with a hike of Son Tra Mountain (Monkey Mountain).
  • Or head to China Beach for some surfing.
  • MUST eat at Banh Xeo Ba Duong, a famous local spot. Bit tricky to find, at the very end of a back alley, but worth every single bite.
  • MUST go to Boucane for a breakfast or dinner crepe and a specialty infused rum cocktail.
    • Not quite “budget” but one of those places that is worth paying a little extra for.

Hoi An

  • Stay at Sac Lo Homestay and Hostel. A bit pricier but the food is excellent and Lyna, the owner, makes the difference.
  • Stay at Sunflower Hotel Hoi An for the price, pool, and buffet breakfast BUT NOT for the staff. Unhelpful at best and intentionally misleading at worst.
    • All 3 of our group had severe indigestion by the end of our stay. Something is off with the food preparation here; we suspect the coffee and tea. Beware.
  • If you’re in Hoi An for a handmade suit and feel comfortable trusting our research, save some time and go straight to Kimmy Custom Tailor.
    • We wasted a whole day sampling each of the “well-respected” shops. They all source the same material; the differentiating factor is customer service.
    • DO NOT pay for the ties, pocket squares, or the 3% credit card markup. If you do, you haven’t negotiated properly.
    • Here is the strategy that worked for us: walk in, sit down with a staff member and list exactly what you want (MUST choose a fabric for your suits at this time or you will not arrive at a negotiable price), reach a final price for the entire package, walk out.
    • Return a couple hours later, claim you have a comparable package at Yaly Couture (that you really like!) for $100-200 less plus no cost for ties and pocket squares and no 3% credit card markup.
    • Negotiate to your target middle ground from there. Good luck!
  • MUST spend some time exploring Hoi An’s Ancient Town (UNESCO World Heritage Site), either by bicycle or by foot.
    • To enter certain points of interest you must purchase a ticket for 120K VND (Japanese Covered Bridge, Fukian Assembly Hall, Old House of Tan Ky, etc.).
    • We didn’t think the ticket price was worth it. Most sites can be appreciated from the street and have repetitive interiors (security is also lax :P).
  • MUST make a trip to Marble Mountain (also reachable from Da Nang).  Good exercise, incredible views, and tons of temple/shrine exploration.
  • Cooking classes are very popular in Hoi An.  We are saving this experience for Thailand, but heard especially great things about Green Bamboo Cooking School.
  • MUST try the Banh Mi at Banh Mi Phuong. It is the “best Vietnamese banh mi sandwich in the world” according to Anthony Bourdain’s TV show, “No Reservations.”
  • MUST go to The Chef for a dark Belgian beer on their rooftop. One of the few places that we have seen dark beer, let alone Belgian, in all of Vietnam (and a welcome change from Saigon, Larue, and Tiger!).

Kon Tum

  • Stay at Thinh Vuong Hotel. Spacious, clean, and helpful staff.
  • MUST do a tour with Mr. Huynh through his company: Highland Eco Tours.
    • Read through this travelfish.org page, decide what most interests you, then contact Mr. Huynh to set it up.
    • On our Minority Village Tour, we wandered villages, cemeteries, rice fields, coffee fields, rubber tree plantations, saw Agent Orange affected hillsides, crashed a wedding, and ended up in a late night private Karaoke room – all led by Mr. Huynh, long after he was “off the clock.”
  • MUST try the spicy snail street food on the Dak Bla riverfront (here).
    • Don’t be surprised if the locals offer you shots of rice wine (a.k.a. “happy water”), it’s the traditional pairing!
  • MUST spend an afternoon relaxing with coffee and a snack at Hien Vi Cafe (here). Gorgeous riverfront scene, with tree shade and simple seating.

Quy Nhon

  • Stay at one of two hostels: Life’s a Beach or Big Tree Backpackers & Bistro (both are actually 10km South of Quy Nhon proper).
    • Dorms are a tad bit nicer at Life’s a Beach but more expensive.
    • Life’s a Beach does a communal dinner for 150K VND each night. You don’t need to be a guest to partake.
  • MUST swim to Hon Ngang island directly off the coast (~30 mins). Find the trail to the backside of the island and spend the day on your own private beach.
  • There is a multi-stage waterfall nearby that is a local secret. The trailhead is a 15 minute walk North along the highway. Ask for more information at your hostel. If you lose the trail, just head to the stream and boulder hop to the upper pools. Bring a swimsuit!
  • MUST try the communal dinner at Life’s a Beach, at least once.

Nha Trang

  • Stay at Mojzo Dorm or iHome. (Mojzo’s original location is Mojzo Inn. Same price for dorms but also includes private rooms.)
    • Mojzo Dorm has the best customer service we’ve ever encountered. Also, free breakfast, free bananas, and a free beer happy hour from 5-6pm.
    • iHome has a free buffet breakfast, free beer happy hour from 6-7pm, and a very fun rooftop scene.
    • Pro Budget Play: hit the Mojzo Dorm happy hour from 5-6pm then the iHome happy hour from 6-7pm. The best buzz is a free buzz!
  • MUST rent a scooter to visit Ba Ho Waterfall. Pack some food and drinks and make a day of it with a good group of people.
    • Be prepared for some boulder scrambling. Bring a swimsuit for a dip in each of the 3 pools (the top level is the best).
    • Make a stop at Monkey Island on the way to Ba Ho if you want a taste of wildlife (though we suspect it’s not really a “natural habitat.”)
  • It’s worth checking out the temples in the Nha Trang area: Hon Chong (don’t pay for the temple, just soak in the view), Po Nagar Cham Tower, Long Son Pagoda, and Nha Tho Nui.
    • Rent a bicycle or walk to each one in that order. It’s good exercise and a great way to see local life beyond the tourist strip.
  • Vinpearl Amusement Park is on its own island just off the coast and can be accessed by boat or gondola. It sounded fun but we couldn’t justify the price in our budget.
  • The spas and mud baths are popular, but again, nothing we couldn’t experience at home.
  • MUST try the Pho at Pho Hong. The only place we ate in Vietnam with Pho rivaling Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) or Hanoi.
  • MUST try the Banh Xeo shop around the corner from Mojzo Dorm (here). It rivals Quan Banh Xeo 46a in Saigon at a fraction of the price. One of our top meals in Vietnam.
  • Why Not Bar is the best late night backpacker spot with a pool table, drink specials, dancing, and an outdoor chill area.
  • The Sailing Club on Nha Trang beach is another popular late night stop, though we skipped it because of the entry fee (for men only).
  • For something special, grab a drink at The Rooftop Lounge. Lesser known and a bit pricier, but unique atmosphere and a great view from the balcony.

Da Lat

  • MUST stay at Dalat Family Hostel, at least for a night.
  • Wolfpack Hostel Dalat, Cozy Nook Hostel, and Mr. Peace Backpacker’s House all have great reputations too.
  • MUST do the famous Dalat canyoning tour.
    • Book directly from the VietChallenge office to save money by cutting out the middle man (your hostel).
    • Book a private tour (put together your own group of 4-6) rather than joining a hostel-organized tour (10-15 people).  This will drastically cut waiting time and give you more turns on the ropes.  (Your hostel can also organize a private tour if you request it specifically and have a group ready.)
  • MUST take a walk around Xuan Huong Lake and visit the Crazy House Museum.
  • MUST rent a scooter to visit Elephant Waterfall and the adjacent temple.
    • The drive itself is worth the trip.  Ignore “warnings” of police sightings.  This is the hostel hoping you will book a tour instead.
    • It is also possible to catch a public bus from the main square.  Ask about this specifically and your hostel will be able to help.
  • MUST hike Lang Biang Mountain.  Rent a scooter or take a taxi; it is only 15-20 minutes to the base.
    • There are TWO peaks.  One that follows the paved road and one that turns on to an offroad trail up to 2,167 meters.  Make sure to see both!
    • The hike takes roughly 4 hours and the park gates close at 5pm.
  • Rent a scooter and head South East for a great day trip: Linh Phuoc Pagoda, Tiger Cave Waterfall, Datanla Waterfall (the rollercoaster is worth it!), and Truc Lam Pagoda – in that order.
  • MUST do a “family” dinner at one of the popular hostels (see above).  Cheap, never ending food and unbeatable atmosphere.
    • We ate at Dalat Family Hostel every single night.
  • MUST check out “100 Roofs Cafe” at night, also known as “Maze Bar.”  Quite possibly the most unique bar we have ever been to.
    • Buy a bottle of homemade rum upon entry.
    • Here is the game: put together a group of 4-6 people.  Nominate one person to take the bottle and hide.  The rest of the group forms a search party.  When they find the missing member, everyone takes a shot, and the next person in line takes a turn.
    • It’s a good idea for everyone to have a side drink.  The place is huge!

Mui Ne

  • We stayed 38 days in Mui Ne to kiteboard and surf… and don’t regret a single second of it.
  • Stay at Mui Ne Backpacker Village (more party) or Mui Ne Backpacker Resort (more chill).
  • For kiteboarding, go to Vietnam Kiteboarding School (VKS).  We did our research.  You may save a few small bucks at another school but the staff and community feel at VKS simply can’t be beat.
    • Ask for Long, Hong, or Bay as an instructor.
    • Please say hello to all the staff from Kelly and Cory!
  • For surfing, take a taxi to Sea Links Beach (5-10 minute drive) and rent a board on site.
    • Best time is early afternoon as the tide is coming back in and before the crowds start arriving at 4pm.
    • Malibu Beach is also an option though much less consistent than Sea Links and longer to get to (20 minute drive).
      • You can rent a board on site but speak to a local about the surf forecast before committing.
  • Sand Dune trips are very hit or miss.  Great views, particularly at sunrise or sunset, but very touristy (lots of people and lots of vendors).
    • The Red Sand Dunes are closer but the White Sand Dunes are more scenic and offer the option to rent an ATV.
    • Pre-booked tours will take you to both.  We drove to the Red Sand Dunes and skipped the White and don’t regret it.
  • MUST MUST eat at Warung restaurant/cafe.  Delicious, home-cooked, buffet-style food, at the best price you will find in Vietnam (we’ve looked).  The atmosphere is one-of-a-kind and gets better the longer you stay.
    • Best time is around 1pm, just after the last plates of food come out.
    • Please say hi to the owners (Julia, Chin, and Chupe) from Kelly and Cory!
  • MUST eat at the Banh Mi stand on the street outside of Mr. Lee Kiteboarding School.  This is the best Banh Mi in Vietnam as far as we’re concerned.
    • Ask for egg in addition to BBQ beef, chicken, or pork, at no extra charge.
  • MUST eat at Nginh Phong, just East of Mui Ne Backpacker Village (here).
    • Order the “twenty-five chicken” or the “twenty-five pork.”  This isn’t on the menu; it’s a little-known local secret 😉  Total cost: 25K VND.
    • MUST get the banana pancake for dessert.  Be liberal with the sweet condensed milk and thank us later 🙂
  • Dragon Beach is the go-to late night party spot.  Pogo Bar is a close second.  Both are a 5-10 minute drive East down the main road
  • We prefer the laid back beach clubs: Vietnam Kiteboarding School (VKS) and Joe’s Cafe are our favourites (though VKS can turn wild on big nights!).

Ho Chi Minh (Saigon)

  • MUST stay at Vietnam Inn Saigon.  Two free drinks per night, free breakfast, diverse community, and great location.
  • If Vietnam Inn Saigon is full, stay at The Hideout.
  • Commonwealth Bank (here) is the only place where you can take out 9 million VND at a time.  Huge for avoiding ATM fees (virtually every other ATM in Vietnam has a 2M VND limit).
  • MUST visit the Cu Chi Tunnels and the War Remnants Museum.  Do it in one day:
    • Book an 8am tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels.  The 8am tour is cheaper than the 1pm.  Book through an independent travel agency (take a quick walk, they are everywhere).  It is significantly cheaper than booking through a hostel, for the exact same tour.
    • Visit the War Remnants Museum in the afternoon.  It closes at 5pm.
  • The Jade Emperor Pagoda is surprisingly pleasant and overlooked by most travellers.
  • Saigon Notre Dame Basilica and Saigon Central Post Office are quick to check out and worth walking by, but don’t expect anything special.
  • MUST eat at Quan Banh Xeo 46a.  One of our top 3 meals in Vietnam.
  • MUST eat at the first Vietnamese Pho shop East out the front door of Vietnam Inn Saigon (~25 meters).  Still one of our favourite Phos to-date.
  • Check out 5KU Station for delicious DIY BBQ, though a bit pricier than Pho.
    • Be sure to order Ostrich as one of your meat dishes.
  • Bui Vien Street is the backpacker hangout with tons of bars and street food:
    • The Hideaway (formerly Donkey) is a notable late night spot.
    • Lily Bar on Bui Vien and De Tham will sell you pre-rolled joints.
    • DO NOT bring loose bags or purses to Bui Vien, especially at night.  Bag snatchers WILL target you.  We’ve seen it happen

Chau Doc

  • MUST visit Phuoc Dien temple, by far the most underrated temple we’ve seen in Vietnam.
  • Take a Cham Village tour to fit in some culture.  We enjoyed visiting nearby Phum Soai.
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