Thursday, April 21st (Lombok Day 5)

  • By 6:45am we were strapped up and ready for the 35 minute drive to a new surf spot: Mawi Beach.
  • Despite not being 100% confident in the route, we made it with no issues and even managed to enjoy the first part of the drive, which was on freshly paved roads dipping and climbing over the lush hills with an occasional pristine beach scene popping into view in the distance.
  • Unfortunately, the last few kilometres were on dirt roads in terrible condition.  We both had sore backs by the time we made it to the beach.
  • It was immediately apparent that Mawi Beach is a special place.  The waves are consistently long and break inside a wide bay that provides wind protection.  Only a few people were in the water with plenty of room to avoid crowding.  The actual beach was devoid of the usual crowds and vendors, occupied only by an unassuming bamboo restaurant where surfers could commune before and after their sessions.
  • We strapped up and entered the water together, facing our first major battle of the day to make it through the breaking waves and into the lineup.
  • Within the first few minutes I had scored two awesome rides on long breaking waves that were over my head.
  • At one point, I saw a board shoot past me in a haze of whitewash as I was paddling back out to the lineup.  Having dealt with a broken leash and the pain of retrieving a board before, I decided to help the surfer out and immediately gave chase.  A few feet before the rocky shoreline I caught up to the board, threw the leash into my teeth, and paddled it back out to the floundering owner.
  • He expressed his thanks and we both continued our session.
  • Cory, on the other hand, did not have such a fun time.  One wave in particular ruined the session for him:  He caught a ride but was closed-out on quickly in a pile of whitewash.  The turbulence under the surface then held him down until he was beginning to panic from lack of oxygen.  Mercifully, the wave let him go in time for a big gulp of air only to have the board collide with his cheek before he had even opened his eyes.
  • Three hours later we returned to Krisna Homestay, just in time to take advantage of their complimentary breakfast and coffee.
  • We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in our room, then headed to Segar Beach for an evening surf session just after 4pm.
  • This time we didn’t wait for the locals to get in the water.  We were the first ones in and proud of braving the low tide.
  • Another hard lesson learned:
  • By the time we had beat the breaking waves we realized that the conditions were far less than ideal on account of the wind.
  • Waves came at us from every direction, breaking hard with zero predictability.
  • Slowly we washed further and further down the beach, continually being separated from our boards by violent whitewash.
  • Eventually I couldn’t take it any longer and rode one of the rolling whitewashes back to shore.
  • Cory followed suite, and it was here that we had our first walk of shame, picking our way across sharp reef in front of every spectator on the beach.
  • Finally back on safe sand, we collected ourselves before heading home.
  • To eat away the pain, we ordered a giant “Super” omelette from a street vendor, a huge chocolate, peanut, condensed-milk pancake from the same vendor, and an avacado-banana milkshake from a vendor down the road.
  • We returned to the room and ate ourselves to sleep in preparation of another early morning surf session at Mawi the next day.

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